Galerie Vero Dodat, Paris

When the butcher and financier – Vero and Dodat – put up the funding for this arcade in the centre of Paris, it was known by the more humble title of ‘Passage Vero-Dodat,’ but these days it has taken on the more glamorous ‘galerie’ name, to bring it into line with its neighbours Vivienne and Colbert.

The entrances in white stone, with Greek Gods standing over them certainly give it an upmarket feel; as does the black and white tiling, which draws the eye right along the length of the arcade; and the classic paintings on the ceiling.

Inside there are also some high-end window displays: costumes from a recent Isabelle Adjani movie in one shop; beautiful gloves, and Louboutin shoes in another. But there’s also a guitar shop, a tea room, hair salon, perfumery and various home décor interior shops. The tea room has beautiful wood-panelled fittings, which look as if they date back at least 100 years. And two lucky caretakers (gardiens) have offices at either end of the arcade.

There is still some old signage from the days when a print shop made visiting cards, though the name Aubert above the shop is no longer visible (the British Museum has a print of the shop front, with a big crowd gathered outside the shop – see the story from the arcade’s past, below)

My favourite shop today

The shop window showing the costumes from the Adjani movie kept my attention for most of the time spent in this arcade. I shall have to return to see what delights are in there next time…

My pick of the arcade’s past

In September 1831, under the July Monarchy, there were riots in the centre of Paris by people calling for a Republic to replace the King, Louis-Phillippe. The National Guard on horseback galloped through the Galerie Vero-Dodat, brandishing their swords and chasing rioters who had taken refuge in the cafes and bars in the arcade.

A News in Brief from 1835 which made it to the UK newspapers told of a 9-year-old girl standing looking at the drawings in the window of Aubert’s shop in the Galerie Vero-Dodat (this was the shop which regularly displayed the latest works by Honore Daumier). As she stood staring at the window, a young rogue came up and snipped off her plaits, before running off…

An 1847 story told of a dentist working in the Vero-Dodat passage who was convicted of assaulting his female patients. He was accused of using ether to subdue them and then molesting them; he was found guilty and sentenced to six years hard labour on a hulk. As he was led away he claimed his innocence, shouting that Mme Hyacinthe had fabricated this story to make money in compensation.